Death remains a very common topic here in Tanzania because it is so frequent and common, which does not make the grief any less of course. After seven years of living here, we are still amazed at how often we hear of people dying, including children and babies. Malaria takes a big toll among adults and children alike.
10/27/04 - Death in this culture
Although many things have changed in these parts, some traditions remain and differ by tribe. For instance, men are buried lying on their right sides, women on their left sides; everyone is buried with their heads to the West. The right hand in Swahili is called the “hand of man” and the left is called the “hand of woman.” There is good death (dying from disease, natural causes) and bad death (dying from murder or accident). Men are mourned for 4 days because they are or can be the head of the family, and women for 3 days.
In some tribes family members of the deceased shave their heads entirely. When the hair regrows, the family members can stop thinking of their loss. People deemed crazy are not mourned. If a baby is born as a stillborn, there is no mourning period, and no one, including the mother, is allowed to cry because it may bring bad luck, and she can have another child. If her husband dies, a woman is encouraged to remarry after the 4 days but these days everyone is wary of AIDS so she isn’t required to marry again. The cemeteries are divided into about 6 spaces for people to be buried according to religion.
In the past, when a person died, he/she was wrapped in a fresh cow skin, and the mourners ate the meat from the cow. Now he/she is wrapped in white cloth and put in a coffin. Muslims are not buried in coffins, but their bodies cannot touch dirt, so they are covered with leaves, etc before the dirt covers them. In the past, if a chief died, they would bury a live servant with him because he still would need someone to serve him; the family of the servant would be financially reimbursed (or paid in cows, etc.). When twins or breech babies were born, they would be “thrown out” because they brought bad luck. Also, if a child’s top teeth grew in before the bottom teeth, they would be thrown out too for the same reasons. Most of these traditions ceased when understanding grew.
Dusty was just saying today that we hear of a lot more death here. Someone was hit on their motorcycle in town on Sunday and was decapitated. 2 of our teachers have had neighbors die since we have been here. And we heard lamenting wailing from the village through our windows when someone died there. Community life is so much stronger here that everyone still knows everyone else’s business. The average lifespan is much shorter here too. If a person gets cancer, chemo and radiation are not really choices because of the lack of money and health care. And of course AIDS is claiming so many. We haven’t seen anyone with visible AIDS yet, but we know many people who have lost family members that way.
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Sunday, June 5, 2011
African Anecdotes #1: Church
In light of our leaving Tanzania and moving to Uganda, I am finding myself in a retrospective state of mind. Therefore I'm posting some of the original African Anecdotes that I began writing in 2004 before I began blogging.
A choir in a Masaai church we visited in Kenya in 2004
10/5/04 (written in Musoma during language school)Church
Life continues on here, and we visited our 4th TZ church this week. We have been to 8 services in East Africa so far including Anglican, Lutheran, Africa Inland Church, a Masai (tribe) church, and Baptist; some were urban and others were rural. The first hour of most of these services is focused on singing, prayer, and scripture reading; most services go for two hours or more, and only one had an optional Sunday School for adults.
Let me tell you, the choir is always the main attraction. The choirs here are a treat for both the ears and eyes. They have no robes, but they have a combination of dancing and signing that is very engaging. It seems that each song has a different set of hand signs and foot movements to follow, and no one ever screws up. They harmonize their voices, but unfortunately, I can’t always appreciate that because the music team (electric guitars, bass, drum, and/or synthesizer) plays loudly and not very well.
Churches usually take at least 2 offerings, so we always split what we will give in three groups, both for me and Dusty, so that we can participate in 100% of the offerings. We have yet to figure out the reasoning on multiple offerings. Everyone walks single file to the basket at the front of the church and donates while the choir sings. Someone always announces the attendance and offering amounts of the former week, and one time it was announced that the women gave more than the men, and all the women cheered and clapped in an otherwise very liturgical service. We have been to 2 services where vegetables and fruit were auctioned off among the congregation to raise funds too.
Sometimes laypeople give the sermons, and it is not uncommon for a woman to preach. We never know how long the sermon will be, but it feels very long. Sometimes I just pray quietly when my brain tires of listening for words I recognize. Women (in general) sit on the left side of the church, and men on the right, but everyone expects foreigners to sit together, which is nice for us. Kids usually sit in front, and behave very well, considering that they are there for 2 hours! The pews are always wood with or without backs on them. We are always asked to stand and introduce ourselves as guests, and we usually stumble through some pathetic Swahili sentences, but everyone is gracious and pleased in spite of our tripping tongues. At the end of the service while we are singing, the first person out (pastor) shakes hands with the next person out, and so on, so that we shake hands with every person in the church and exchange greetings. The kids do a little curtsy thing to us, and they have a different verbal greeting too.
Jack in "Sunday School" outside our church in Musoma where we still worship. The pastor's house is in the background. The kids play under this mango tree.
A choir in a Masaai church we visited in Kenya in 200410/5/04 (written in Musoma during language school)Church
Life continues on here, and we visited our 4th TZ church this week. We have been to 8 services in East Africa so far including Anglican, Lutheran, Africa Inland Church, a Masai (tribe) church, and Baptist; some were urban and others were rural. The first hour of most of these services is focused on singing, prayer, and scripture reading; most services go for two hours or more, and only one had an optional Sunday School for adults.
Let me tell you, the choir is always the main attraction. The choirs here are a treat for both the ears and eyes. They have no robes, but they have a combination of dancing and signing that is very engaging. It seems that each song has a different set of hand signs and foot movements to follow, and no one ever screws up. They harmonize their voices, but unfortunately, I can’t always appreciate that because the music team (electric guitars, bass, drum, and/or synthesizer) plays loudly and not very well.
Churches usually take at least 2 offerings, so we always split what we will give in three groups, both for me and Dusty, so that we can participate in 100% of the offerings. We have yet to figure out the reasoning on multiple offerings. Everyone walks single file to the basket at the front of the church and donates while the choir sings. Someone always announces the attendance and offering amounts of the former week, and one time it was announced that the women gave more than the men, and all the women cheered and clapped in an otherwise very liturgical service. We have been to 2 services where vegetables and fruit were auctioned off among the congregation to raise funds too.
Sometimes laypeople give the sermons, and it is not uncommon for a woman to preach. We never know how long the sermon will be, but it feels very long. Sometimes I just pray quietly when my brain tires of listening for words I recognize. Women (in general) sit on the left side of the church, and men on the right, but everyone expects foreigners to sit together, which is nice for us. Kids usually sit in front, and behave very well, considering that they are there for 2 hours! The pews are always wood with or without backs on them. We are always asked to stand and introduce ourselves as guests, and we usually stumble through some pathetic Swahili sentences, but everyone is gracious and pleased in spite of our tripping tongues. At the end of the service while we are singing, the first person out (pastor) shakes hands with the next person out, and so on, so that we shake hands with every person in the church and exchange greetings. The kids do a little curtsy thing to us, and they have a different verbal greeting too.
Jack in "Sunday School" outside our church in Musoma where we still worship. The pastor's house is in the background. The kids play under this mango tree.
Monday, May 30, 2011
Introducing: Mafuru Hill
As you may recall, Sululu, our office construction foreman and good friend, gave us the blessing of naming his 12th child. We named him Simeoni, from the second chapter of the book of Luke. In return, we asked Sululu to give Cooper a Jita name as Sululu is from the Jita tribe. He chose the name Mafuru, which is a small fish and also the name of his deceased brother, which was quite an honor for us. Apparently Cooper/Mafuru was born during the time when many of this fish are available.
Although we will continue to call him Cooper, Sululu and his family will now call him Mafuru. We can now introduce him to Tanzanians as Mafuru, which is much easier for them to say and understand. And now we are Baba Mafuru (Dusty) and Mama Mafuru (me)!
Dusty holding Simeoni, now 4 months, and Sululu holding Mafuru
Sululu's uncle and Mafuru. This older man has completely withered legs and is only able to walk with the use of a tall stick, but still radiates such beautiful joy. He is always happy to see us.
Mama Simeoni, Sululu's third wife, and Mafuru. Cooper couldn't sleep because he was being passed around a lot, and any time Cooper let out a little squeak from being tired she insisted that he was hungry even though I had just fed him. Tanzanians don't let their babies cry - they just keep feeding them. Our explanation of putting Cooper on a feed/wake/sleep schedule fell on deaf ears...again.
Sululu's second wife on the left and third wife on the right with some of the kids. Everyone enjoyed holding the little mzungu (white) baby.
This was such a fun morning - having chai with our friends in their home, cuddling Simeoni with his big eyes, and waiting for Cooper's Jita name with mounting curiosity.
Although we will continue to call him Cooper, Sululu and his family will now call him Mafuru. We can now introduce him to Tanzanians as Mafuru, which is much easier for them to say and understand. And now we are Baba Mafuru (Dusty) and Mama Mafuru (me)!
Dusty holding Simeoni, now 4 months, and Sululu holding Mafuru
Sululu's uncle and Mafuru. This older man has completely withered legs and is only able to walk with the use of a tall stick, but still radiates such beautiful joy. He is always happy to see us.
Mama Simeoni, Sululu's third wife, and Mafuru. Cooper couldn't sleep because he was being passed around a lot, and any time Cooper let out a little squeak from being tired she insisted that he was hungry even though I had just fed him. Tanzanians don't let their babies cry - they just keep feeding them. Our explanation of putting Cooper on a feed/wake/sleep schedule fell on deaf ears...again. 
Sululu's second wife on the left and third wife on the right with some of the kids. Everyone enjoyed holding the little mzungu (white) baby.
This was such a fun morning - having chai with our friends in their home, cuddling Simeoni with his big eyes, and waiting for Cooper's Jita name with mounting curiosity.
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
The Ultimate Kidism List
Due to lack of time/energy I have not been as faithful with our email updates as I would have liked, but I have been collecting the kidisms from the past 3 months. So here they are, in full. Enjoy!
First, from our time in the Nairobi as the kids were adjusting to the wonders of urban life:
Jack, accustomed to bathing in a basin and watching the water drain down the bathtub: "Look! The water is sinking!"
Jack, on the first shopping trip: "Wow! A parking lot! Can we park here?!"
Kim, after Tessa prayed for the person passing us in an ambulance: "because one day it could be one of us." Tessa: "Oh, it will definitely be me." Us, shocked: "Why?" Tessa: "Because I am always blowing my nose!" (she had a rare cold at the time)
Jack, noticing the overhead car light is not working: "The car's umeme is off." (umeme = electricity, and at home in TZ, we have frequent reason to say "the umeme is off.")
Jack, hearing a car alarm: "Mama, what's that bird's name?"
Tessa, after a beggar knocked on our vehicle window:"Mama, is he rich?" Kim: "No, he's poor and was asking for money." Tessa: "Well, he should go to a bank to get money instead of asking us." (followed by a lengthy explanation of poverty and our response to the poor)
Tessa: "They should really get Chik-Fil-A in Nairobi." (Amen!!)
Jack: "Come see my dot com!" (the city he built from tracks, trains, and blocks on the floor)
Tessa: "God just told me how He wants me to serve Him!" Us: "Really? How?" Tessa: "He wants me to go to the playground tomorrow!"
Kim: "And we may have to wake you in the middle of the night if that's when the baby comes." Tessa: "Or the side of the night would be fine."
Jack to Tessa, who was playing with his toy: "Be fortunate with my helicopter!" (meaning: 'careful') Jack likes to use big words, even if he doesn't understand them.
While on vacation at a hotel on the coast of Kenya:
Tessa, pointing at a group of boys: "Mama, I like cute boys... like THAT one." Yikes!
Jack, after a conversation about baptism: "When we were in the ocean, I put my face in the water and baptized myself!"
Jack, in the restaurant after a meal: "Where's the sink?" We were confused why he wanted a sink and made an effort to get him to clarify. Turns out he wanted to take his dirty dish to the sink! Us: "Oh no Jack; these nice men will take our dishes for us!"
Kim: "..and we can take a boat tomorrow." (meaning the glass bottom boat at the hotel) Jack: "I would like to take a boat back to Musoma." The boy really missed his home!
And after we returned to Tanzania:
Jack: "I don't like you exasperated. I like you happy." (We had read a book earlier with an exasperated mother in it and had explained that word to the kids.)
Tessa: "...and then Jesus said the magic words, and the water turned into wine."
Jack: "Float like a butterfly, sting like a beaver." (should be 'bee')
Tessa, with arms spread partially: "I love you this much." Kim, with arms spread all the way: "Well, who do you love this much?" Tessa: "Cooper."
Dusty: "What's happening in Libya is so sad." Tessa: "Who's Olivia?"
Jack, whose fish taco was falling apart: "We need to put some tape on this taco."
Tessa while looking at things through the car window: "I'm a good-looker, aren't I?"
Tessa, after a previous conversation about getting engaged: "When I grow up and a man asks if I will marry him, I will DEFINITELY say yes!"
First, from our time in the Nairobi as the kids were adjusting to the wonders of urban life:
Jack, accustomed to bathing in a basin and watching the water drain down the bathtub: "Look! The water is sinking!"
Jack, on the first shopping trip: "Wow! A parking lot! Can we park here?!"
Kim, after Tessa prayed for the person passing us in an ambulance: "because one day it could be one of us." Tessa: "Oh, it will definitely be me." Us, shocked: "Why?" Tessa: "Because I am always blowing my nose!" (she had a rare cold at the time)
Jack, noticing the overhead car light is not working: "The car's umeme is off." (umeme = electricity, and at home in TZ, we have frequent reason to say "the umeme is off.")
Jack, hearing a car alarm: "Mama, what's that bird's name?"
Tessa, after a beggar knocked on our vehicle window:"Mama, is he rich?" Kim: "No, he's poor and was asking for money." Tessa: "Well, he should go to a bank to get money instead of asking us." (followed by a lengthy explanation of poverty and our response to the poor)
Tessa: "They should really get Chik-Fil-A in Nairobi." (Amen!!)
Jack: "Come see my dot com!" (the city he built from tracks, trains, and blocks on the floor)
Tessa: "God just told me how He wants me to serve Him!" Us: "Really? How?" Tessa: "He wants me to go to the playground tomorrow!"
Kim: "And we may have to wake you in the middle of the night if that's when the baby comes." Tessa: "Or the side of the night would be fine."
Jack to Tessa, who was playing with his toy: "Be fortunate with my helicopter!" (meaning: 'careful') Jack likes to use big words, even if he doesn't understand them.
While on vacation at a hotel on the coast of Kenya:
Tessa, pointing at a group of boys: "Mama, I like cute boys... like THAT one." Yikes!
Jack, after a conversation about baptism: "When we were in the ocean, I put my face in the water and baptized myself!"
Jack, in the restaurant after a meal: "Where's the sink?" We were confused why he wanted a sink and made an effort to get him to clarify. Turns out he wanted to take his dirty dish to the sink! Us: "Oh no Jack; these nice men will take our dishes for us!"
Kim: "..and we can take a boat tomorrow." (meaning the glass bottom boat at the hotel) Jack: "I would like to take a boat back to Musoma." The boy really missed his home!
And after we returned to Tanzania:
Jack: "I don't like you exasperated. I like you happy." (We had read a book earlier with an exasperated mother in it and had explained that word to the kids.)
Tessa: "...and then Jesus said the magic words, and the water turned into wine."
Jack: "Float like a butterfly, sting like a beaver." (should be 'bee')
Tessa, with arms spread partially: "I love you this much." Kim, with arms spread all the way: "Well, who do you love this much?" Tessa: "Cooper."
Dusty: "What's happening in Libya is so sad." Tessa: "Who's Olivia?"
Jack, whose fish taco was falling apart: "We need to put some tape on this taco."
Tessa while looking at things through the car window: "I'm a good-looker, aren't I?"
Tessa, after a previous conversation about getting engaged: "When I grow up and a man asks if I will marry him, I will DEFINITELY say yes!"
Thursday, May 19, 2011
You might be a missionary in Tanzania if...
(apologies to those who have already read this, but I just discovered that it got lost among older posts, so here it is again)
You might be a missionary in Tanzania if...
1. You're the only person in the neighborhood who exercises for the sake of exercise, and everyone knows it.
2. You keep a frozen water bottle in the freezer to put in the fridge for power cuts.
3. You know instinctively which bumps in the dirt road to avoid and which you can pass over easily.
4. You only have one wardrobe, and it's for warm weather. Similarly, you get a bit excited when it's cool enough to actually wear socks.
5. You shop at the second hand clothing market for all your family's Christmas gifts.
6. Knowing every toilet has issues here, you ask the host what you need to know about the quirks of the toilet before you go to use it.
7. Smelling smoke in your house does not make you panic because you're keenly aware that it's just someone burning refuse outside.
8. Your language is laced with Commonwealth English. You go "on holiday." You were "in university" or even "in uni." You change "nappies." You put your trash in the "rubbish bin."
9. You know what it means when someone is taking a medicine ending in -azole. (parasites or worms)
10. You know that what looks like a squeeze mustard bottle on a restaurant table is actually filled with hot sauce.
11. You pack produce in your suitcase. (most recently butternut squash)
12. You don't think twice about seeing a dirt-colored cow lying down outside the grocery store door because you're so excited about actually going into a grocery store in the big city!
13. You arrive one hour late to a wedding and yet are still one hour early.
14. You understand why there is a sign on the toilet door saying, "Do not stand on seat." (Locals use squat toilets - ceramic hole in the ground - and aren't sure how to use a Western toilet.)
15. You can't leave your house without being frowned upon because you didn't wrap your baby in three blankets even though it is 85 degrees and sunny outside.
16. Instead of going to liquor stores to get free boxes for moving, you BUY them from random shop owners on the side of the road.
You might be a missionary in Tanzania if...
1. You're the only person in the neighborhood who exercises for the sake of exercise, and everyone knows it.
2. You keep a frozen water bottle in the freezer to put in the fridge for power cuts.
3. You know instinctively which bumps in the dirt road to avoid and which you can pass over easily.
4. You only have one wardrobe, and it's for warm weather. Similarly, you get a bit excited when it's cool enough to actually wear socks.
5. You shop at the second hand clothing market for all your family's Christmas gifts.
6. Knowing every toilet has issues here, you ask the host what you need to know about the quirks of the toilet before you go to use it.
7. Smelling smoke in your house does not make you panic because you're keenly aware that it's just someone burning refuse outside.
8. Your language is laced with Commonwealth English. You go "on holiday." You were "in university" or even "in uni." You change "nappies." You put your trash in the "rubbish bin."
9. You know what it means when someone is taking a medicine ending in -azole. (parasites or worms)
10. You know that what looks like a squeeze mustard bottle on a restaurant table is actually filled with hot sauce.
11. You pack produce in your suitcase. (most recently butternut squash)
12. You don't think twice about seeing a dirt-colored cow lying down outside the grocery store door because you're so excited about actually going into a grocery store in the big city!
13. You arrive one hour late to a wedding and yet are still one hour early.
14. You understand why there is a sign on the toilet door saying, "Do not stand on seat." (Locals use squat toilets - ceramic hole in the ground - and aren't sure how to use a Western toilet.)
15. You can't leave your house without being frowned upon because you didn't wrap your baby in three blankets even though it is 85 degrees and sunny outside.
16. Instead of going to liquor stores to get free boxes for moving, you BUY them from random shop owners on the side of the road.
Saturday, April 23, 2011
Kids' Easter Photos
Happy Easter! We have so much to praise God for this year with the birth of Cooper, and as always we are especially thankful today for the resurrection of Jesus, who has brought us eternal life. May your Easter be filled with the joy of the risen Lord! As we say in Swahili: Amefufuka! (He has risen) Amefufuka kweli kweli! (He has risen indeed!)
2007 in Musoma
2008 in Musoma
2009 in Texas
2010 in Musoma
2011 in Nairobi
2007 in Musoma
2008 in Musoma
2009 in Texas
2010 in Musoma
2011 in Nairobi
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Embassy
This morning we went to the American Embassy in Nairobi. The last time we were there was four years ago when we were obtaining Jack's passport and social security number. Since then things have changed a bit - namely that you can no longer simply go to the embassy - you have to make an appointment online or over the phone.
The odd thing though, is that when pursuing a passport, the embassy makes the appointment for you. I keep imagining the movie-type situation where the bad guys are chasing the good American all the way to the embassy gates. In Kenya that American wouldn't get in without his/her official paper proving that he/she has an appointment!
So we found out yesterday afternoon that they gave us the appointment for this morning at 10:30. They had put our request off a bit, so Dusty emailed them and remarkably received a reply within hours with the appointment for today. So that was impressive at least. We cleared our schedule - embassy appointments are precious!
We left our house at 9:15 so we could meet our friend Carl at a nearby shopping center parking lot at 10:15. The most odd thing is that the embassy has NO PARKING - at all. Perhaps this is to prevent car bombs? But then why not have off-site parking? It's completely frustrating. Carl took us to the embassy and dropped us off, and we took a taxi back to the shopping center when we were done.
We were scanned immediately at the gate, and then anything we brought with us was scanned again. The items the security guards chose to keep while we went inside were our cell phones, car keys, and ... Spencer. Spencer is the metal, magnetized train that Jack chose to bring as his toy for the day. Let me tell you, Jack's bottom lip popped out and tears formed in his eyes as we walked away from Spencer, although we hastened to comfort Jack by telling him he would get Spencer back when we left. The poor guy was so worried and saddened!
We waited about 45 minutes to submit our paperwork, sign it, and swear in. Everything went smoothly and the lady didn't mention our missing information, so hopefully it will not be a problem. She said it will take 2-3 weeks to get the passport. Obviously we're hoping no longer than 2 weeks so we can return to Tanzania.
In the meantime, Cooper is neither Kenyan or American. He's just a boy floating with no citizenship anywhere. Apparently, children born to foreigners have to apply for Kenyan citizenship, which we're obviously not going to do. Simply obtaining his birth certificate was stressful enough, and dual citizenship is still not allowed, at least as far as we know.
The most harrowing part of the morning was fighting traffic in a construction zone. It was absolutely unbelievable how aggressive the matatu drivers are. Matatus are the 14 passenger mini-vans that many people use for transportation here. But other drivers as well are just as aggressive. There appear to be no road rules and risk is the name of the game.
All told, we've been very pleased that things have happened so quickly - even the staff at the embassy were impressed to see a 10-day-old baby applying for a passport. Usually it takes longer, so we know the Lord, not the embassy, is expediting our process!
The odd thing though, is that when pursuing a passport, the embassy makes the appointment for you. I keep imagining the movie-type situation where the bad guys are chasing the good American all the way to the embassy gates. In Kenya that American wouldn't get in without his/her official paper proving that he/she has an appointment!
So we found out yesterday afternoon that they gave us the appointment for this morning at 10:30. They had put our request off a bit, so Dusty emailed them and remarkably received a reply within hours with the appointment for today. So that was impressive at least. We cleared our schedule - embassy appointments are precious!
We left our house at 9:15 so we could meet our friend Carl at a nearby shopping center parking lot at 10:15. The most odd thing is that the embassy has NO PARKING - at all. Perhaps this is to prevent car bombs? But then why not have off-site parking? It's completely frustrating. Carl took us to the embassy and dropped us off, and we took a taxi back to the shopping center when we were done.
We were scanned immediately at the gate, and then anything we brought with us was scanned again. The items the security guards chose to keep while we went inside were our cell phones, car keys, and ... Spencer. Spencer is the metal, magnetized train that Jack chose to bring as his toy for the day. Let me tell you, Jack's bottom lip popped out and tears formed in his eyes as we walked away from Spencer, although we hastened to comfort Jack by telling him he would get Spencer back when we left. The poor guy was so worried and saddened!
We waited about 45 minutes to submit our paperwork, sign it, and swear in. Everything went smoothly and the lady didn't mention our missing information, so hopefully it will not be a problem. She said it will take 2-3 weeks to get the passport. Obviously we're hoping no longer than 2 weeks so we can return to Tanzania.
In the meantime, Cooper is neither Kenyan or American. He's just a boy floating with no citizenship anywhere. Apparently, children born to foreigners have to apply for Kenyan citizenship, which we're obviously not going to do. Simply obtaining his birth certificate was stressful enough, and dual citizenship is still not allowed, at least as far as we know.
The most harrowing part of the morning was fighting traffic in a construction zone. It was absolutely unbelievable how aggressive the matatu drivers are. Matatus are the 14 passenger mini-vans that many people use for transportation here. But other drivers as well are just as aggressive. There appear to be no road rules and risk is the name of the game.
All told, we've been very pleased that things have happened so quickly - even the staff at the embassy were impressed to see a 10-day-old baby applying for a passport. Usually it takes longer, so we know the Lord, not the embassy, is expediting our process!
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